I've been hesitant for awhile to join the masses in making a pair of Persephones, mostly because I have enough other pants patterns, this seemed repetitive. After hearing from a lot of folks though, I realized this pattern is unique enough to merit making, and I'm so glad I did! View & Sizing:Based on the sizing chart, I opted to grade from a size 4 waist to a size 0 hip, and I used the image below from Anna Allen's website, to help with the grading. I cut the waistband and all the fly pieces in a size 4. Ultimately, I ended up taking an additional 3/8" off the inseam seam allowance, due to a baggy fit around the crotch/back. This means in total I used a 7/8" seam allowance on the inseam, and I will be taking 3/8" off the pattern piece so that next time I can return to the 1/2" SA in the pattern. In the image above, the green line represents the original 1/2" SA, the white line were my basting stitches trying to take another 1/4" off (so at that point 6/8" SA), then ultimately I decided I needed to take even more out, and the red line is my final stitching, 1/8" from the last. In all, the final stitching for the inseam was a 7/8" seam allowance. I went back with my serger, trimmed the initial finishing and serged it 1/2" from my seam line for less bulk. After wearing them, there is a slight gape in the back waistband, I think I will use a curved waistband next time, as it hugs my waist better than the straight waistband that is included in the pattern. For the hem, I shortened the inseam 1/2", for a full lengthened fit, at my height (5'3") I would need to shorten it about 1.5-2" for a more cropped fit. I'm still unclear about the pattern adjustments I need to make, but I think I will take 3/8" off each side of the crotch curve and inseam to account for my adjustments. Materials:The fabric is navy 10oz organic cotton canvas from Blackbird Fabrics. It was one of their imperfect remnants that were heavily discounted. I ordered the fabric expecting to use it as a toile, but it arrived with no visible imperfections or discolorations, so I decided to go ahead and use it for a final pair. I didn't toile at all, but I did stop and check measurements a lot throughout the process. For the pocket lining I used a very soft quilting cotton that I thrifted from Clever Octopus in SLC. I got 5/8" buttons with a matching 3/4" button from JoAnn's, but I am very concerned they'll pop off since they only have two holes, and I think the force with which I undo the buttons requires either jeans buttons or at least four holes for reinforcement. Construction:The mods I made:
Honestly, I am so pleased with how straightforward the construction was. After doing the Dawn Jenas I feel like I can tackle any sort of pant. For newbies, I would recommend starting with the Persephones, they are a great introduction to fitted pants/jeans type. I LOVE the inseam pockets, and was shocked to discover they can easily hold my iPhone X. I was also originally scared of making a covered button fly, as it seemed tricky (hence why my Dawn Jeans have the exposed button fly). The instructions were super clear, though, and it took no time to create the button fly. The hardest part of construction was the topstitching lines on the inseam. I was in disbelief that my machine could do it. But starting at the crotch, I was able to get two lines of topstitching down each leg! Final Thoughts:I'm a big fan of this pattern! It took me in total approx. 6 hours (including tracing/cutting the pattern and fabric). However, the pattern pieces are HUGE and it took me an hour to tape the pattern pieces together.
In particular, I love the fit around my waist. They are much roomier when I sit down than the Dawns, so I feel like I can comfortably wear them all day. There are a few more mods I want to make to address the gaping at the back waistband (maybe take in the back darts more). Otherwise, I'll be making several more!
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About FrancescaI got my first sewing machine middle school, circa 2005 (although I don't remember learning much in the way of sewing). After a long hiatus, I was reunited with my machine in 2019. I re-entered the hobby through gear-making, and have been crafting a handmade wardrobe since late 2020. I have a real affinity for comfy clothes (secret pajamas) and all the colors! Archives
August 2023
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