I'll be honest, this is mostly a toiles and tribulations post about my first attempt at the Jenny Trousers (Jenny Overalls) by Closet Core Patterns. View & Sizing:![]() Based on the sizing chart, I decided to cut a straight size 6. This felt wrong to begin with, and as I was tracing the pattern I kept accidentally following the size 4 lines (maybe it was a sign!) I now now I should have graded to a size 4 at the waist, but it seemed negligible on the pattern pieces. The pattern is drafted for someone who is 5'6", and the cropped inseam is 26", which is my full length inseam. I decided to cut the cropped length. During the toile process I could tell something was off and these were going to be too huge (I was drowning in fabric). As a result I took 1/4" off the crotch curve for both the front and back pieces, 0.5" off the rise, and shortened the legs 1". These mods had me feeling safe enough to start on the nicer fabric, however mid construction I realized the hips were still too big, and ultimately after stitching the crotch seam at the normal 5/8" SA, I went back and added another 3/8" to make the crotch seam 1". This reduced some bulk in the hips and butt, and also took in 3/4" off the waist, which I wasn't expected to be as big as it was. My biggest mistake was not paying closer attention to the finished garment measurements, and accounting for the natural give that linen has.
While I plan to size down I will keep my 0.5" off the rise and 1" off the legs as my rise is 10.5". Materials:![]() I used this amazing 8oz softened linen from The Fabrics Store. After my three pairs of Free Range Slacks in lightweight linen this summer, I knew I needed heavier fabrics to get me through the Utah winter. I adore this fabric, it is so drapey and soft, thankfully I ordered the same weight in a mustard yellow that I can't wit to cut into! This was my first time using top-stitching thread, and I took inspiration from Nisan @the.social.fabric to use gray, I think it looks lovely! I also use two KATM Labels :) Construction:I actually love the construction of these pants! Closet Core has such detailed instructions with great visuals. For my first pair of fitted pants, including inset pockets, a zipper fly, waistband and button I'm so proud of how well this came together! As always, I made my share of mistakes, and had it out with my machine over the button foot despising heavy fabrics, so here are some lessons:
Final Thoughts:Overall I'm proud of myself for making my first real pair of pants. This pair will definitely get worn, its hard to go wrong with black linen after all. I do just really wish the sizing on these weren't so baggy in the hip. I plan to make a pair of the overalls soon, using the sizing I discussed above, and maybe this summer I'll whip out a pair of the shorts! I definitely love the style and the side zip, it leaves such a clean front.
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About FrancescaI got my first sewing machine middle school, circa 2005 (although I don't remember learning much in the way of sewing). After a long hiatus, I was reunited with my machine in 2019. I re-entered the hobby through gear-making, and have been crafting a handmade wardrobe since late 2020. I have a real affinity for comfy clothes (secret pajamas) and all the colors! Archives
August 2023
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